Edited by Andy Zhang, Nicole Willson, Dave Crosby, Flickety and 69 others
The red eared slider turtle is native to the southern United States and northern Mexico, with its range covering diverse habitats. Of all the turtles kept as pets, this turtle is the most well known and adopted.[1] If you're interested in a lifelong friend, a red eared slider turtle makes a wonderful pet. They're enjoyable to watch and, with proper care, will live a long time.
EditPart 1 of 4: Deciding This is the Pet for You
1
Find out all you can about red eared turtles before you decide to host one in your home. Borrow a suitable book from your local library and read about their habits, lifestyle and longevity (websites run by experienced red eared turtle owners are also a good place to find information). While a turtle may seem like a straightforward pet, you will have to care for this animal by feeding it, regularly cleaning its housing and ensuring that it remains healthy. For more help, you might do well to join a local turtle or reptile society and seek the advice of experienced reptile keepers. Here are some brief facts to help give you a broad overview of red eared turtles:
Red eared slider turtles are considered to be good turtles for those not experienced with keeping a turtle. They are fairly hardy and can cope with diverse habitat styles. However, it will take both time and money to keep a red eared turtle in good health, so you must be prepared to spend both on caring for the turtle.
Red eared turtles need a lot of space in which to live and move. Both males and females can grow quite large, so need large aquariums or outdoor ponds.[1] If you're planning on keeping turtles outdoors, this may only be appropriate for Central and Southern United States zones (and comparable climates in other countries), as they may not tolerate over-wintering in more northern states.[1]
On the whole, most captive red eared turtles tolerate humans well, even though they tend to shy away in the wild. Many will allow picking up and handling, but this isn't a given.
Red eared turtles are content to eat food made commercially for turtles and food you've foraged for them (see below).
Male red eared turtles tend to harass female red eared turtles. Hence, it's recommended that they be kept separately.[1]
Longevity: Healthy red eared turtles can live as long as 50-70 years.[2] Are you ready for that?
EditPart 2 of 4: Setting Up
Red eared slider turtles need a home that replicates their wild one. Namely, it needs to be warm, offering some deep water and some shallow, along with a warm area to bask.
stock tank
1
Purchase a tank of a decent size. The tank must be big enough to hold a growing turtle. A good rule of thumb is to have 10 gallons per inch of your turtle, plus 15 percent extra space for basking areas. For a baby turtle, you can get by with a 50 gallon tank for the first year. After that, you will need a 120+ gallon tank. When choosing the tank, consider the following needs:
Depth: Turtles love to swim in deep water. They need enough room to dive, chase down fish and play.
Space: Red eared turtles are territorial; they need to have enough space to call their own.
Waste: Turtles create a lot of waste, and they need to have enough water to dilute the waste as it is being filtered. Without lots of water, the toxins will build up and can have harmful effects on your turtle's health.
2
Find a cheaper alternative. If a glass tank is too expensive for you to purchase, try a stock tank. You can generally find a stock tank of 100 gallons or more for a relatively cheap price. The tank can be decorated, and walls added, to create a very comfy indoor pond look.
If you live somewhere warm enough and have a deep backyard pond that has good filtration, this is another, much more natural alternative for the turtle.
Be aware that while acrylic may offer a cheaper alternative than glass, it tends to be scratched easily by the turtle's claws.
3
Add filters. Strong filters that are purpose-built for turtle keeping are a must––dirty water causes poor health and disease. As well as changing dirty water regularly, adding a filter is an essential part of preparing a turtle tank (filters reduce the amount of water changes needed). There are different types of filter, depending on your current needs and budget:
Under-gravel filter: This needs a large surface are and good oxygenation. It's only useful where you have one or two turtles and if it's air pump powered, it will only be useful for hatchlings.[3] Use a powerhead if using with turtles older than hatchlings.
Internal canister filter: The larger the better, this can be both affordable and effective. Look for one that allows for easy cleaning, such as the foam type. One canister filter recommended by many turtle owners is the Rena Filstar Xp3 or Xp4.
External canister filter: This one sits outside of the tank. They tend to be expensive but they are excellent at filtering and reduce the amount of times you need to change water.
To keep the nitrates levels down, undertake 10% water changes weekly or 20% every other week. Full tank cleanings are not necessary. In fact, in a well maintained tank, you may not need a full tank cleaning for a couple years!
4
Decorate the tank. Decorations can add diversity and interest to your turtle's habitat. Substrate should also offer a way for the turtle to move between water and basking rocks with ease.
Buy some river rocks for basking. You could also make a basking spot from a plexiglass shelf glued to the side of the tank. Check that the glue is non-toxic.
Fish tank gravel is a bad idea as it presents a health risk––if swallowed, an intestinal blockage could result in death for your turtle. The larger the pebbles or rocks are, the less of a chance your turtle will eat them and get an intestinal blockage.
While water plants can make the tank look nice, and assist with filtration, they may also be temptation for the turtle's dinner. If the turtle eats them, that means more waste in the tank that needs removing.
Place a well-fitting screen over the top of the tank, to prevent daredevil escape and to catch anything accidentally dropped from above.
5
Set the water temperatures. The water should be 80 - 82 degrees Fahrenheit ( 26.5 - 27.5 Celsius) for a hatchling or a sick turtle, and 77 - 80 degrees F (25.5 - 26.5 C) for a healthy turtle over a year old. The basking (dry land) area should be 10 degrees F (6 degrees C ) warmer than the water to entice the turtle to warm up by basking.
both UVB and heat lights
6
Use the right kind of light. Turtles need UVB light as well as a heat light; UVB lamps are an essential component of maintaining the health of your turtle. This form of light does not travel through glass, so it is very important that you get a 5% or more UVB lamp. The bulbs should be replaced about every 6 months. The heat light is needed to keep the basking area temperature 10 degrees higher than your water temperature.
Lighting should not be accessible by the turtle, as the bulbs can burn. Screw tightly out of the way of the turtle.
7
Talk to your vet. It's a good idea to find out if your local vet is happy to treat a turtle if the need should arise. Also, have a chat about the needs of a red eared turtle, as well as whether this is a good choice for your lifestyle and expectations.
EditPart 3 of 4: Obtaining the Turtle
1
Purchase your turtle. Never take a turtle from the wild. Not only is this cruel and unfair to the turtle, it is also illegal in most states. Be aware that the kindest thing you can do is to get an adult turtle that is no longer wanted, as there is an oversupply of such turtles needing homes.[3] Check out availability at adoption, rehoming or turtle rescue organizations. You can also try a reputable breeders to get your turtle.
Beware of pet stores that keep turtles in poor condition; a number of turtles are ill before you buy them. Look around and take note of the turtle's behavior.
2
Expect a shy turtle upon bringing it home. It may take a few days before your turtle feels safe enough to venture forth from the shelter of its shell.[2]
male claws
3
Sex the turtle. You will not be able to determine the gender until a turtle is a mature adult. Males will have longer nails and a longer tail than females.[2]
EditPart 4 of 4: Everyday Care
Anacharis plant
1
Feed the red eared turtle food appropriate for it. A proper diet for red eared turtles (and similar aquatic turtle species) should have the following proportions: Vegetables and water plants 50 percent, commercial foods 25 percent, and live protein 25 percent. Red eared turtles tend to favor protein foods, which can be a trick for the beginner owner who might be lulled into feeding too much protein. Don't––it can cause shell deformation, organ harm and can shorten the turtle's lifespan.[1] Note that juvenile turtles tend to be more carnivorous, while adult turtles turn omnivorous.[2]
Good choices for food include: Dandelions (the ones in your yard are good if you don't use pesticides), carrot tops, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, carrots, bell pepper, and squash.
The best greens are water plants like anacharis, water hyacinth, water lettuce, frogbit, hornwort, and duckweed. While expensive in a pet store, these are easy to grow in a separate tank or pond, and they are cheap if you buy in bulk online.
Red eared turtles don't usually eat fruit in the wild, so avoid it except for an absolute treat. If giving a treat, bananas are a good choice.
For commercial food, look for something that has low protein and low fat. Dried shrimp are an absolute no-no! They are like candy to turtles. Tastes great, zero nutrients, and turtles who eat them may refuse other foods for weeks.
Some red eared owners like to feed the turtle in a separate tank. This has the benefit of keeping the water clean. It has the disadvantage of having to be present to shift the turtle when it has finished eating.
2
Check your turtle for signs of health problems. Part of maintaining health is spotting the lack of it. With turtles, there are various conditions and diseases that can occur if the water is dirty, if the diet is inadequate or for other reasons. Some of the more common concerns to watch for include:[3]
Eye infections: Caused by bacteria. The eyes will appear closed, swollen, puffed up or discharging. The turtle should be seen by a vet and probably needs a topical antibiotic plus upgrading the tank's filtration system.
Soft shell: If your turtle's shell is softer than it's supposed to be, your slider may be suffering from soft shell. Soft shell is when your turtle doesn't get enough light from your over head light. If this happens the turtles dock may be too small, the water may be too deep, or the turtle is too weak to get on the dock. If this happens contact your vet or a pet store
Furry mouth and refusal to eat: Caused by bacteria. See the vet immediately for an antibiotic treatment.
Weak, wheezing, lethargic and holding head at an unusual angle: This may be a respiratory infection, such as pneumonia. An immediate vet inspection is warranted.
Wounds: Check the tank for sharp objects or a fighting mate. Remove the cause and treat the wound with povidone-iodine solution and keep it clean. See your vet for more advice.
Kiddie pool
3
Take your turtle outside sometimes for direct sun. You must supervise outside time, to prevent overheating. One approach is to get a kiddie pool and fill it with some water and provide something for the turtle to bask on. It is also important to provide some sort of shade for your turtle so that it won't overheat.
4
Spend time with your turtle. This is your pet and you'll form a bond, as with any pet, if you spend time together. Handle with care––not all turtles like being handled.
Some turtles love to have their shells gently scratched. Just like a back scratch, or scratching behind a dog's ear. But be careful, as not all of them enjoy it and may try to bite. And note that their shells have nerve endings in them and they can feel everything––be gentle.
Edit Tips
Know what type of food you give your turtle. Consider vitamin mix, it has all the vitamins your turtle needs. It should be available at your local pet store at the turtle section.
Make sure your turtle is very clean! A clean pet is a happy pet!
It's a good idea to stick to one turtle until you are experienced. You may decide you don't want any more turtles or you may find one turtle is enough of a handful!
Give them lots of room to bask.
When one turtle is unhealthy, assume any other turtles may have been exposed to something contagious. Have the vet see them as they may need to be treated too.
They like roly polies (pillbugs).
Red ear sliders should have enough room in their cage to swim.
Turtles love crickets for a treat.
Edit Warnings
Red eared sliders should not be cared for by any child, i.e. 10 years old and under, without a parent helping at all times. It is too risky for your child and the little baby turtle or turtles of any age for that matter. Turtle claws are very sharp and might hurt the child, causing your kid to drop the turtle.
Never dump a pet. If you are having difficulties maintaining and caring for your red eared slider turtle, talk to your local animal protection society to find your pet a new, safe home. Dumping pets is not only cruel but it can turn a pet species into a pest species and can be a cause of disease spreading to native and local animals.
Assume that all turtles have salmonella. It is not possible to guarantee a turtle salmonella free since a turtle can become infected at any time. They live with it in their system. Do not be fooled by anyone who claims that a turtle is "salmonella free". After handling your turtle or any of your turtle's accessories, always wash your hands in hot, soapy water. If you have young children or elderly people in your home, also use antibacterial soap.[4]
↑ 1.01.11.21.31.4http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm
↑ 2.02.12.22.3http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=17+1797&aid=2613
↑ 3.03.13.2http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/res.html
↑ http://www.happyturtlespub.org
http://gctts.org/node/72 Water Turtle Care Sheet – research source
http://www.happyturtlespub.org Happy Turtles Pub "HTP" – research source
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm – research source
©
The red eared slider turtle is native to the southern United States and northern Mexico, with its range covering diverse habitats. Of all the turtles kept as pets, this turtle is the most well known and adopted.[1] If you're interested in a lifelong friend, a red eared slider turtle makes a wonderful pet. They're enjoyable to watch and, with proper care, will live a long time.
EditPart 1 of 4: Deciding This is the Pet for You
1
Find out all you can about red eared turtles before you decide to host one in your home. Borrow a suitable book from your local library and read about their habits, lifestyle and longevity (websites run by experienced red eared turtle owners are also a good place to find information). While a turtle may seem like a straightforward pet, you will have to care for this animal by feeding it, regularly cleaning its housing and ensuring that it remains healthy. For more help, you might do well to join a local turtle or reptile society and seek the advice of experienced reptile keepers. Here are some brief facts to help give you a broad overview of red eared turtles:
Red eared slider turtles are considered to be good turtles for those not experienced with keeping a turtle. They are fairly hardy and can cope with diverse habitat styles. However, it will take both time and money to keep a red eared turtle in good health, so you must be prepared to spend both on caring for the turtle.
Red eared turtles need a lot of space in which to live and move. Both males and females can grow quite large, so need large aquariums or outdoor ponds.[1] If you're planning on keeping turtles outdoors, this may only be appropriate for Central and Southern United States zones (and comparable climates in other countries), as they may not tolerate over-wintering in more northern states.[1]
On the whole, most captive red eared turtles tolerate humans well, even though they tend to shy away in the wild. Many will allow picking up and handling, but this isn't a given.
Red eared turtles are content to eat food made commercially for turtles and food you've foraged for them (see below).
Male red eared turtles tend to harass female red eared turtles. Hence, it's recommended that they be kept separately.[1]
Longevity: Healthy red eared turtles can live as long as 50-70 years.[2] Are you ready for that?
EditPart 2 of 4: Setting Up
Red eared slider turtles need a home that replicates their wild one. Namely, it needs to be warm, offering some deep water and some shallow, along with a warm area to bask.
stock tank
1
Purchase a tank of a decent size. The tank must be big enough to hold a growing turtle. A good rule of thumb is to have 10 gallons per inch of your turtle, plus 15 percent extra space for basking areas. For a baby turtle, you can get by with a 50 gallon tank for the first year. After that, you will need a 120+ gallon tank. When choosing the tank, consider the following needs:
Depth: Turtles love to swim in deep water. They need enough room to dive, chase down fish and play.
Space: Red eared turtles are territorial; they need to have enough space to call their own.
Waste: Turtles create a lot of waste, and they need to have enough water to dilute the waste as it is being filtered. Without lots of water, the toxins will build up and can have harmful effects on your turtle's health.
2
Find a cheaper alternative. If a glass tank is too expensive for you to purchase, try a stock tank. You can generally find a stock tank of 100 gallons or more for a relatively cheap price. The tank can be decorated, and walls added, to create a very comfy indoor pond look.
If you live somewhere warm enough and have a deep backyard pond that has good filtration, this is another, much more natural alternative for the turtle.
Be aware that while acrylic may offer a cheaper alternative than glass, it tends to be scratched easily by the turtle's claws.
3
Add filters. Strong filters that are purpose-built for turtle keeping are a must––dirty water causes poor health and disease. As well as changing dirty water regularly, adding a filter is an essential part of preparing a turtle tank (filters reduce the amount of water changes needed). There are different types of filter, depending on your current needs and budget:
Under-gravel filter: This needs a large surface are and good oxygenation. It's only useful where you have one or two turtles and if it's air pump powered, it will only be useful for hatchlings.[3] Use a powerhead if using with turtles older than hatchlings.
Internal canister filter: The larger the better, this can be both affordable and effective. Look for one that allows for easy cleaning, such as the foam type. One canister filter recommended by many turtle owners is the Rena Filstar Xp3 or Xp4.
External canister filter: This one sits outside of the tank. They tend to be expensive but they are excellent at filtering and reduce the amount of times you need to change water.
To keep the nitrates levels down, undertake 10% water changes weekly or 20% every other week. Full tank cleanings are not necessary. In fact, in a well maintained tank, you may not need a full tank cleaning for a couple years!
4
Decorate the tank. Decorations can add diversity and interest to your turtle's habitat. Substrate should also offer a way for the turtle to move between water and basking rocks with ease.
Buy some river rocks for basking. You could also make a basking spot from a plexiglass shelf glued to the side of the tank. Check that the glue is non-toxic.
Fish tank gravel is a bad idea as it presents a health risk––if swallowed, an intestinal blockage could result in death for your turtle. The larger the pebbles or rocks are, the less of a chance your turtle will eat them and get an intestinal blockage.
While water plants can make the tank look nice, and assist with filtration, they may also be temptation for the turtle's dinner. If the turtle eats them, that means more waste in the tank that needs removing.
Place a well-fitting screen over the top of the tank, to prevent daredevil escape and to catch anything accidentally dropped from above.
5
Set the water temperatures. The water should be 80 - 82 degrees Fahrenheit ( 26.5 - 27.5 Celsius) for a hatchling or a sick turtle, and 77 - 80 degrees F (25.5 - 26.5 C) for a healthy turtle over a year old. The basking (dry land) area should be 10 degrees F (6 degrees C ) warmer than the water to entice the turtle to warm up by basking.
both UVB and heat lights
6
Use the right kind of light. Turtles need UVB light as well as a heat light; UVB lamps are an essential component of maintaining the health of your turtle. This form of light does not travel through glass, so it is very important that you get a 5% or more UVB lamp. The bulbs should be replaced about every 6 months. The heat light is needed to keep the basking area temperature 10 degrees higher than your water temperature.
Lighting should not be accessible by the turtle, as the bulbs can burn. Screw tightly out of the way of the turtle.
7
Talk to your vet. It's a good idea to find out if your local vet is happy to treat a turtle if the need should arise. Also, have a chat about the needs of a red eared turtle, as well as whether this is a good choice for your lifestyle and expectations.
EditPart 3 of 4: Obtaining the Turtle
1
Purchase your turtle. Never take a turtle from the wild. Not only is this cruel and unfair to the turtle, it is also illegal in most states. Be aware that the kindest thing you can do is to get an adult turtle that is no longer wanted, as there is an oversupply of such turtles needing homes.[3] Check out availability at adoption, rehoming or turtle rescue organizations. You can also try a reputable breeders to get your turtle.
Beware of pet stores that keep turtles in poor condition; a number of turtles are ill before you buy them. Look around and take note of the turtle's behavior.
2
Expect a shy turtle upon bringing it home. It may take a few days before your turtle feels safe enough to venture forth from the shelter of its shell.[2]
male claws
3
Sex the turtle. You will not be able to determine the gender until a turtle is a mature adult. Males will have longer nails and a longer tail than females.[2]
EditPart 4 of 4: Everyday Care
Anacharis plant
1
Feed the red eared turtle food appropriate for it. A proper diet for red eared turtles (and similar aquatic turtle species) should have the following proportions: Vegetables and water plants 50 percent, commercial foods 25 percent, and live protein 25 percent. Red eared turtles tend to favor protein foods, which can be a trick for the beginner owner who might be lulled into feeding too much protein. Don't––it can cause shell deformation, organ harm and can shorten the turtle's lifespan.[1] Note that juvenile turtles tend to be more carnivorous, while adult turtles turn omnivorous.[2]
Good choices for food include: Dandelions (the ones in your yard are good if you don't use pesticides), carrot tops, mustard greens, romaine lettuce, carrots, bell pepper, and squash.
The best greens are water plants like anacharis, water hyacinth, water lettuce, frogbit, hornwort, and duckweed. While expensive in a pet store, these are easy to grow in a separate tank or pond, and they are cheap if you buy in bulk online.
Red eared turtles don't usually eat fruit in the wild, so avoid it except for an absolute treat. If giving a treat, bananas are a good choice.
For commercial food, look for something that has low protein and low fat. Dried shrimp are an absolute no-no! They are like candy to turtles. Tastes great, zero nutrients, and turtles who eat them may refuse other foods for weeks.
Some red eared owners like to feed the turtle in a separate tank. This has the benefit of keeping the water clean. It has the disadvantage of having to be present to shift the turtle when it has finished eating.
2
Check your turtle for signs of health problems. Part of maintaining health is spotting the lack of it. With turtles, there are various conditions and diseases that can occur if the water is dirty, if the diet is inadequate or for other reasons. Some of the more common concerns to watch for include:[3]
Eye infections: Caused by bacteria. The eyes will appear closed, swollen, puffed up or discharging. The turtle should be seen by a vet and probably needs a topical antibiotic plus upgrading the tank's filtration system.
Soft shell: If your turtle's shell is softer than it's supposed to be, your slider may be suffering from soft shell. Soft shell is when your turtle doesn't get enough light from your over head light. If this happens the turtles dock may be too small, the water may be too deep, or the turtle is too weak to get on the dock. If this happens contact your vet or a pet store
Furry mouth and refusal to eat: Caused by bacteria. See the vet immediately for an antibiotic treatment.
Weak, wheezing, lethargic and holding head at an unusual angle: This may be a respiratory infection, such as pneumonia. An immediate vet inspection is warranted.
Wounds: Check the tank for sharp objects or a fighting mate. Remove the cause and treat the wound with povidone-iodine solution and keep it clean. See your vet for more advice.
Kiddie pool
3
Take your turtle outside sometimes for direct sun. You must supervise outside time, to prevent overheating. One approach is to get a kiddie pool and fill it with some water and provide something for the turtle to bask on. It is also important to provide some sort of shade for your turtle so that it won't overheat.
4
Spend time with your turtle. This is your pet and you'll form a bond, as with any pet, if you spend time together. Handle with care––not all turtles like being handled.
Some turtles love to have their shells gently scratched. Just like a back scratch, or scratching behind a dog's ear. But be careful, as not all of them enjoy it and may try to bite. And note that their shells have nerve endings in them and they can feel everything––be gentle.
Edit Tips
Know what type of food you give your turtle. Consider vitamin mix, it has all the vitamins your turtle needs. It should be available at your local pet store at the turtle section.
Make sure your turtle is very clean! A clean pet is a happy pet!
It's a good idea to stick to one turtle until you are experienced. You may decide you don't want any more turtles or you may find one turtle is enough of a handful!
Give them lots of room to bask.
When one turtle is unhealthy, assume any other turtles may have been exposed to something contagious. Have the vet see them as they may need to be treated too.
They like roly polies (pillbugs).
Red ear sliders should have enough room in their cage to swim.
Turtles love crickets for a treat.
Edit Warnings
Red eared sliders should not be cared for by any child, i.e. 10 years old and under, without a parent helping at all times. It is too risky for your child and the little baby turtle or turtles of any age for that matter. Turtle claws are very sharp and might hurt the child, causing your kid to drop the turtle.
Never dump a pet. If you are having difficulties maintaining and caring for your red eared slider turtle, talk to your local animal protection society to find your pet a new, safe home. Dumping pets is not only cruel but it can turn a pet species into a pest species and can be a cause of disease spreading to native and local animals.
Assume that all turtles have salmonella. It is not possible to guarantee a turtle salmonella free since a turtle can become infected at any time. They live with it in their system. Do not be fooled by anyone who claims that a turtle is "salmonella free". After handling your turtle or any of your turtle's accessories, always wash your hands in hot, soapy water. If you have young children or elderly people in your home, also use antibacterial soap.[4]
↑ 1.01.11.21.31.4http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm
↑ 2.02.12.22.3http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=17+1797&aid=2613
↑ 3.03.13.2http://www.tortoisetrust.org/articles/res.html
↑ http://www.happyturtlespub.org
http://gctts.org/node/72 Water Turtle Care Sheet – research source
http://www.happyturtlespub.org Happy Turtles Pub "HTP" – research source
http://www.austinsturtlepage.com/Care/caresheet-red_ear_slider.htm – research source
©
